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RTW
Ready-to-Wear Today
Ready-to-wear has rather different connotations in the spheres of fashion and classic clothing. In the fashion industry, designers produce ready-to-wear clothing intended to be worn without significant alteration, because it is by far the most economical, efficient, and profitable way to produce garments. They use standard patterns, factory equipment, and faster construction techniques to keep costs low, compared to a custom-sewn version of the same item. Some fashion houses or fashion designers create ready-to-wear lines that are mass-produced and industrially manufactured, while others offer lines that are very exclusive and produced only in limited numbers for a limited time. Whatever the quantity produced, these garments are never one-of-a-kind.


[edit] Haute Couture and Bespoke
The antithesis of ready-to-wear is different depending on whether it concerns women's or men's fashion. In women's fashion high end clothing made partly incorporating features requested by the client and to her exact measurements is called haute couture. In menswear, it is usually called bespoke. In menswear, one further distinguishes between made-to-measure (or 'semi-bespoke'), in which a standard pattern is adapted to the customer's measurements, and (full) bespoke, in which a new design is created from scratch for each customer. Savile Row is a famous district in London legendary for its bespoke tailoring. Charvet in Paris is an example[1] of a famous men's bespoke shirtmaker which offers both a high-end ready-to-wear as well as a bespoke service.

The top tailors of traditional clothing, such as traditional Savile Row establishments, do not generally diversify, although a few have; in this case, the ready-to-wear clothing is not actually made 'in house', but is a re-branded garment. An example of a firm that has done this is Gieves and Hawkes. Many of the larger establishments, such as Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, or Huntsman will not produce ready-to-wear clothing, and, at much cheaper rates than the female haute couture houses, are able to attract enough buyers to remain profitable on bespoke clothing alone. A large factor in this decision is a fear of alienating traditional customers, who might see ready-to-wear as tarnishing the reputation of the establishment. Such perceptions are based on issues caused by the lower price, and include problems such as a worse fit, lower quality construction (for example fused canvasing which shortens the garment's life), and using lower quality fabric. In actual fact, keen to avoid such criticisms, houses like Gieves and Hawkes have been careful to sell clothes with traditional cloth and construction wherever possible. In the shoe industry, most bespoke manufacturers do sell ready-to-wear items, but again they are usually not produced by the actual firm, being bought in from the exclusively ready-to-wear manufacturers and rebranded.

Fashion houses that produce a women's haute couture line, such as Chanel, Dior, and Lacroix or Torrente by Julien Fournié, also produce a ready-to-wear line, which returns a greater profit due to the higher volume turnover of garments and greater availability of the clothing. Relative to couture, ready-to-wear clothing is often more practical and informal, though this may not always be the case. The construction of ready-to-wear clothing is also held to different standard than that of haute couture due to its industrial nature. High-end ready-to-wear lines are sometimes based upon a famous gown or pattern that is then duplicated and advertised to raise the visibility of the designer.


[edit] Collections
Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashionable couture houses each season during a period known as Fashion Week. This takes place on a city-wide basis (London, New York, Paris, Milan, Los Angeles) and occurs twice a year. Collections for autumn/winter are shown early in the year, usually around February, and spring/summer collections are shown around September. Ready-to-wear fashion weeks occur separately and earlier than those of haute couture. Ready-to-wear shows do not always feature the actual garments to be sold later in the year. The key word wearability is used in the press and industry to describe how different the designs featured in a show will be from the garments sold in stores.


[edit] Notes and references
^ Art of Textile Designing. Global Media. ISBN 8189940031


CTR
Haute couture (French for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking"; pronounced [oːt kutyʁ]) refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.

It originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worth's work, produced in Paris in the mid-nineteenth century. In modern France, haute couture is a "protected name" that can be used only by firms that meet certain well-defined standards. However, the term is also used loosely to describe all high-fashion custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in Paris or in other fashion capitals such as Milan, London, Rome, New York and Tokyo.

The term can refer to:

the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions
the fashions created
Contents [show]
1 Legal status
1.1 Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
2 History
3 See also
4 References
5 External links



[edit] Legal status
In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris based in Paris, France. Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture. The criteria for haute couture were established in 1945 and updated in 1992.

To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules:

Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.
However, the term haute couture may have been misused by ready-to-wear brands since the late 1980s, so that its true meaning may have become blurred with that of prêt-à-porter (the French term for ready-to-wear fashion) in the public perception. Every haute couture house also markets prêt-à-porter collections, which typically deliver a higher return on investment than their custom clothing[citation needed]. In fact, much of the haute couture displayed at fashion shows today is rarely sold; it is created to enhance the prestige of the house[citation needed]. Falling revenues have forced a few couture houses to abandon their less profitable couture division and concentrate solely on the less prestigious prêt-à-porter. These houses, such as Italian designer Roberto Capucci, all of whom have their workshops in Italy, are no longer considered haute couture.

Many top designer fashion houses, such as Chanel, use the word for some of their special collections. These collections are often not for sale or they are very difficult to purchase. Sometimes, "haute couture" doesn't mean just creation of new models of cloth wear, but it's also a type of fine art, like any other ones, as sculpture, painting, music and more. Moreover, "haute couture" can even include all of the mentioned components. [1]


[edit] Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
The fashion houses listed on the definitive schedule for Haute-Couture Spring/Summer 2009 are:[2]

Official members
Adeline André
Anne Valérie Hash
Chanel
Christian Dior
Christian Lacroix
Dominique Sirop
Franck Sorbier
Givenchy
Jean Paul Gaultier
Maurizio Galante
Stephane Rolland

Correspondent members (foreign)
Elie Saab
Giorgio Armani
Maison Martin Margiela
Valentino

Guest members
Adam Jones
Alexis Mabille
Boudicca
Cathy Pill
Christophe Josse
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Gustavo Lins
Jean-Paul Knott
Josep Font
Lefranc.Ferrant
Marc Le Bihan
Richard René
Udo Edling

Accessories
On Aura Tout Vu



In the 2008 Spring/Summer Haute Couture week, Guest members included Eymeric François, Gérald Watelet, Nicolas Le Cauchois and On aura tout vu.[3] In the 2008/2009 Fall/Winter Haute Couture week, Emanuel Ungaro showed as an Official Member and WU YONG [1] as a Guest member.[4]

Former members

Atelier Versace
Elsa Schiaparelli
Emilio Pucci
Chado Ralph Rucci
Erica Spitulski
Erik Tenorio
Fred Sethal
Guy Laroche
Hanae Mori

Jean Patou
Jean-Louis Scherrer
Lanvin
Loris Azzaro
Louis Feraud
Mainbocher
Marcel Rochas

Nina Ricci
Paco Rabanne
Pierre Balmain
Pierre Cardin
Ralph Rucci
Torrente
Yves Saint Laurent
Gai Mattiolo
Anna May




[edit] History
This article does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unverifiable material may be challenged and removed. (August 2008)

French leadership in European fashion may perhaps be dated from the 18th century, when the art, architecture, music, and fashions of the French court at Versailles were imitated across Europe[citation needed]. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered fashion dolls dressed in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models.

As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations.

The couturier Charles Frederick Worth (October 13, 1826–March 10, 1895), is widely considered the father of haute couture as it is known today. Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry. Revolutionizing how dressmaking had been previously perceived, Worth made it so the dressmaker became the artist of garnishment: a fashion designer. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing a portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth. Clients selected one model, specified colors and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready-to-wear clothing industry, which was also developing during this period.

Following in Worth's footsteps were Callot Soeurs, Patou, Poiret, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under the leadership of modern designers.

In the 1960s a group of young designers who had trained under men like Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, and Emanuel Ungaro. Japanese native and Paris-based Hanae Mori was also successful in establishing her own line.

Lacroix is perhaps the most successful of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have included Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler.

For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer the main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes, and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. Excessive commercialization and profit-making can be damaging, however. Cardin, for example, licensed with abandon in the 1980s and his name lost most of its fashionable cachet when anyone could buy Cardin luggage at a discount store.

The 1960s also featured a revolt against established fashion standards by mods, rockers, and hippies, as well as an increasing internationalization of the fashion scene. Jet travel had spawned a jet set that partied—and shopped—just as happily in New York as in Paris. Rich women no longer felt that a Paris dress was necessarily better than one sewn elsewhere. While Paris is still pre-eminent in the fashion world, it is no longer the sole arbiter of fashion.


[edit] See also
Fédération française de la couture
Fashion designer
Fashion Week
Designer label
Luxury brand
List of grands couturiers
Business cluster

[edit] References
^ Wuyong - Dancing In A Haute Couture Debut
^ "Haute-Couture Spring Summer 2009 Definitive schedule". http://www.modeaparis.com/va/collections/2009ephc/index.html. Retrieved on 2009-02-14.
^ "Haute-Couture Spring Summer 2008 Definitive schedule". http://www.modeaparis.com/va/collections/2008ephc/index.html. Retrieved on 2008-06-27.
^ "Haute-Couture Fall Winter 2008/2009 Definitive schedule". http://www.modeaparis.com/va/collections/2008hahc/index.html. Retrieved on 2008-06-27.

[edit] External links
Look up couturier in
Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
The Secret World of Haute Couture: A BBC Documentary Presentation
Introduction in Haute Couture
"Haute Couture" from Label France, a magazine of the French Ministry for Foreign Affairs
Haute Couture at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Timeline of Art History
"The Golden Age of Couture". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibition.php. Retrieved on 2007-09-13.
"Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php.
Fédération française de la couture


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Kate Spade (born Katherine Noel Brosnahan in Kansas City, Missouri; December 24, 1962) is the co-founder and namesake of the designer brand, Kate Spade New York.

Contents [show]
1 Education
2 Mademoiselle Magazine
3 Andy Spade
4 Shops
5 Awards
6 Criticism
7 Popular culture
8 References
9 External links



[edit] Education
Spade graduated from St. Teresa's Academy, an all-girl Catholic high school in Kansas City, Missouri. She majored in journalism at Arizona State University, during which time she also worked in a motorcycle bar[1], and is a member of Kappa Kappa Gamma sorority.


[edit] Mademoiselle Magazine
In 1986, Spade worked in the accessories department of Mademoiselle in Manhattan, where she was credited in the magazine's masthead as Katy Brosnahan. While at Mademoiselle she met Bradley Carvette who worked in the art department and would become a longtime boyfriend. Together, they were featured in the magazine as part of a photo story on couples and love.

She left Mademoiselle in 1991, with the title of senior fashion editor/head of accessories. While working for Mademoiselle she noticed that the market lacked stylish and sensible handbags, so decided to create her own. With this in mind, Kate browsed local flea markets, began researching different styles, fabrics, production costs, and created a line of handbags with classic shapes, colors, and fabrics.


[edit] Andy Spade
Spade met her future husband, Andy Spade (brother of actor and comic, David Spade), a native of Scottsdale, Arizona, while at ASU, working side-by-side as salespersons in a men's clothing store, Carter's Men Shop in Phoenix.[2] They were married in 1994. They had a daughter, Frances Beatrix Spade in February, 2005. They launched their New York-based design company "kate spade handbags" in January 1993, selling mainly handbags. Today Kate Spade sells a variety of items including, stationery, personal organizers, address books, shoes, beauty products, perfume, raincoats, pajamas, eyewear, and in 2004, launched "kate spade at home." The home collection includes bedding, bath items, china, various items for the home and wallpaper.

Jack Spade, a fictional name, is the men's complement to the Kate Spade brand. Its founder and principal designer was Andy Spade. In recent years, Kate Spade has been featuring designs and special editions by guest designers and is no longer the sole artistic vision of the husband and wife team.


[edit] Shops

In 1996, Kate Spade opened its first shop in New York City's SoHo. In 1998, Kate Spade opened its doors in Boston, in 2000, Chicago, San Francisco, Greenwich, Connecticut, and Manhasset, Long Island. In the spring of 2003, one more store opened in Georgetown, Washington, D.C. From there, a wave of boutiques opened in 2004, in Atlanta, Houston, Charlotte, Scottsdale, Dallas, and Boca Raton. The last boutiques that were opened were in Las Vegas, Nevada, Palo Alto, King of Prussia, Pennsylvania and Huntsville, Alabama. New stores were planned for Fall 2008 at The Mall at Chestnut Hill in Chestnut Hill, MA, Ross Park Mall in Pittsburgh, Westfield Galleria at Roseville in Roseville, CA and also in Arden Fair Mall in Sacramento, CA. The kate spade store at The Westchester in White Plains recently opened. In 2004, the Kate Spade brand went international, opening a store in Aoyama, Tokyo, Japan.

The brand currently has many Kate Spade boutiques around the world: 46 in the United States, 32 in Japan, 6 in Hong Kong, and 4 in the Philippines as well as 2 in Jakarta.In 2004, Women's Wear Daily reported that Kate Spade had sales of $125 million. It was predicted that in fiscal 2005, sales could reach and surpass $200 million. The Neiman Marcus Group Inc., which formerly owned Kate Spade, sold it to Liz Claiborne for $124 million in November 2006.[3]


[edit] Awards
Kate Spade has won numerous awards throughout her career. In 1996 the Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded Kate "America's New Fashion Talent in Accessories" for her classic designs. In 1998, CFDA once again honored her for "Best Accessory Designer of the Year". Kate Spade's home collection won her three design awards in 2004, including, House Beautiful's "Giants of Design Award for Tastemaker", Bon Appetit's "American Food and Entertaining Award for Designer of the Year", and Elle Decor's "Elle Decor International Design Award for Bedding".


[edit] Criticism
Kate Spade handbags have become very fashionable and are highly-desired items. In an article on fake handbag sales on Canal Street in New York City's Chinatown, the New York Times famously criticized the very simple construction and boxy shape of the original Kate Spade bags as easy targets for counterfeiters.


[edit] Popular culture
Kate Spade handbags have been featured frequently in the sitcom Just Shoot Me (whose cast included Ms. Spade's brother-in-law, David Spade) as the favored purse of the former fashion model character Nina Van Horn, played by Wendie Malick.





[edit] References
^ Elisabeth Buhmiller, PUBLIC LIVES; A Cautious Rise to a Top Name in Fashion, New York Times, March 12 1999
^ Ellyn Spragins, How We Bagged Our Careers, Fortune Small Business, 1 September 2003
^ Angela Moore, Marketwatch, 8 November 2006

[edit] External links
A Business Card for Your Wild Side - Wall Street Journal
Spades Stepping Aside July 26, 2007
Bio and photo of Kate Spade — Crain's New York Business 40 under 40 — 1992
Kate Spade Official Website
Jack Spade Official Website
Real or Fake? kate spade labels
Kate Spade's biography
Good Bone Structure (article)
Kate Spade Handbags And Fragrance (article)
EOnline - David Spade Profile
Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kate_Spade"


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Luca Gadjus


Madeleine Berrevoets


Marcelina Sowa


Marcelle Bittar


Maria Dvirnik


Mariacarla Boscono


Marie Fuema


Marie Kashleva


Marie Meyer


Marina Dreu


Marina Peres


Mariya Markina


Marla Boehr


Marta Berzkalna


Martina Pavlowska


Maryna Linchuk


Masha Tyelna


Maurine Thiry


Melodie Dagault


Melody Woodin


Michaela Kocianova


Michelle Alves


Michelle Buswell


Michelli Provensi


Milagros Schmoll


Milana Keller


Mina Cvetkovic


Miriam Susanna


Missy Rayder


Miyuki Koizumi


Mo Wandan


Mona Johannesson


Morgane Dubled


Morwenna Cobbold


Nadejda Savcova


Nadine Strittmatter


Nadja Auermann


Naomi Campbell


Natalia Belova


Natalia Zavilova


Nicole Trunfio


Nika N


Nina Joukova


Noreen Carmody


Olga Akhunova


Olga H


Olga Sherer


Olya Ivanisevic


Patricia Schmid


Polina Gureeva


Polina Kouklina


Portia Freeman


Rachel Alexander


Rachel Clark


Rachel Kirby


Raquel Zimmermann


Regina Feoktistova


Renata Kaczoruk


Renee Meijer


Rianne Ten Haken


Rita Mouldaglieva


Robyn Connor


Romina Lanaro


Sabrina Ben Amor


Sara Emilia


Sara Ziff


Sarah Seewar


Sasha


Sasha Gachulincova


Sasha Pivovarova


Serafima Vakulenko


Sessilee Lopez


Shalom Harlow


Shannan Click


Sheila Marquez


Shelly Zander


Shosheba Griffiths


Simone Doreleijers


Snejana Onopka


Sofi Berelidze


Sofie Roelens


Solange Wilvert


Sonny Zhou


Sophie Vlaming


Stella Tennant


Stephanie G


Suvi Koponen


Suzanna Snow


Suzanne Diaz


Sveta Egorova


Svieta Nemkova


Talytha Pugliesi


Tanya Dziahileva


Tanya Ruban


Tao


Tatiana Lyadockrina


Tatyana Usova


Tetyana Piskun


Thais Dos Santos


Uliana Tikhova


Viviane Orth


Yana Karpova


Yasmin Warsame


Yevgeniya Kedrova