Fashion design

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Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time. ' Fashion design differs from costume design due to its core product having a built in obsolescence usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments that he created. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design.

Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, or Chanel are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer director.


Two seamstresses, Rue du Claire by Paul SignacContents [show]
1 History of fashion design
1.1 Culture beginnings
1.2 Late twentieth century
2 Types of fashion
3 Designing a collection
4 Areas of work
5 US Income
6 Fashion education
7 Areas of fashion design
8 Fashion design around the world
8.1 American fashion design
8.2 British fashion design
8.3 French fashion design
8.4 Italian fashion design
8.5 Japanese fashion design
9 Fashion design terms
10 Footnotes



[edit] History of fashion design
Main article: History of fashion design

[edit] Culture beginnings
The first fashion designer who was not simply a dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth. Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and high fashion descended from that worn at royal courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him.

It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. The images were shown to clients, which was much cheaper than producing an actual sample garment in the workroom. If the client liked their design, they ordered it and the resulting garment made money for the house. Thus, the tradition of designers sketching out garment designs instead of presenting completed garments on models to customers began as an economy.

At this time in fashion history the division between haute couture and ready-to-wear was not sharply defined. The two separate modes of production were still far from being competitors, and, indeed, they often co-existed in houses where the seamstresses moved freely between made-to-measure and ready-made.

Around the start of the twentieth-century fashion magazines began to include photographs and became even more influential than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public taste. Talented illustrators—among them Paul Iribe, George Lepape and George Barbier—drew exquisite fashion plates for these publications, which covered the most recent developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was La Gazette du Bon Ton, which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925 (with the exception of the war years).

World War II created many radical changes in the fashion industry. After the war, Paris's reputation as the global center of fashion began to crumble and off-the-peg and mass-manufactured fashions became increasingly popular. A new youth style emerged in the Fifties, changing the focus of fashion forever. As the installation of central heating became more widespread the age of minimum-care garments began and lighter textiles and, eventually, synthetics, were introduced.

Faced with the threat of a factory-made fashion-based product, Parisian haute couture mounted its defenses, but to little effect, as it could not stop fashion leaking out onto the streets. Before long, whole categories of women hitherto restricted to inferior substitutes to haute couture would enjoy a greatly enlarged freedom of choice. Dealing in far larger quantities, production cycles were longer than those of couture workshops, which meant that stylists planning their lines for the twice-yearly collections had to try to guess more than a year in advance what their customers would want. A new power was afoot, that of the street, constituting a further threat to the dictatorship of the masters of coutures.


[edit] Late twentieth century
During the late twentieth century fashions began to criss-cross international boundaries with rapidity. Popular Western styles were adopted all over the world, and many designers from outside of the West had a profound impact on fashion. Synthetic materials such as Lycra, Spandex, and viscose became widely-used, and fashion, after two decades of looking to the future, once again turned to the past for integration. Currently, modern fashion has seen a reference to technology such as designers Hussein and Miuccia Prada who have introduced industrial textiles and modern technology into their fall collections.


[edit] Types of fashion
There are three main categories of fashion design, although these may be split up into additional, more specific categories:

Haute couture The type of fashion design which predominated until the 1950s was "made-to-measure" or haute couture, (French for high-fashion). The term made-to-measure may be used for any garment that is created for a specific client. Haute couture, however, is a protected term which can only be officially used by companies that meet certain well-defined standards set by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. Nonetheless, many ready-to-wear, and even mass market labels, claim to produce haute couture, when in fact, according to established standards, they do not. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over the cost of materials and the time it takes to make.

Ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as Fashion Week. This takes place on a city-wide basis and occurs twice per year.

Mass market Currently the fashion industry relies more on mass market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear clothes in large quantities and standard sizes. Cheap materials, creatively used, produce affordable fashion. Mass market designers generally adapt the trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around a season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their own versions of the original look. In order to save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machine. The end product can therefore be sold much more cheaply.


[edit] Designing a collection
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Many designers carefully research and plan a collection so that all the items in it complement each other, and have the particular fashion look which the company is known for or is going for. Oftentimes, a designer will look at what the fashion directions have been in previous seasons, keep an eye on what others in the fashion business are doing, and read fashion forecasting magazines. They also rely on knowledge of their own customers to see which styles succeeded and which were less popular in past seasons. Such research is combined with creative ideas to develop a theme for a collection. Other considerations must be taken into account as well, such as which season the collection is designed for (e.g. choosing thinner, lighter fabrics for summer; thicker, warmer fabrics for winter).

Designing a garment

The design: Different designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, others drape fabric on a dress stand.
Making a card pattern: When the designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), they show it to a professional pattern maker who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card. The pattern maker's job is very precise and painstaking. The fit of the finished garment depends on their accuracy.
The finished dress: Finally, a sample garment is made up in the proper fabric and tested on a fitting model.

[edit] Areas of work
There are three main ways in which designers can work:

Working freelance: Freelance designers works for themselves. They sell their work to fashion houses, direct to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. The garments bear the buyer's label.

Working In-house: In-house designers are employed full-time by one fashion company. Their designs are the property of that company, and cannot be sold to anyone else.

Own Label: Fashion designers often set up their own companies. A lot of designers find this more satisfying than working for someone else, as their designs are sold under their own label.


[edit] US Income
Most fashion designers earn between $13,440 and $93,000. The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics reports an average annual income of $67,370 for fashion designers in 2005. Median annual earnings for fashion designers were $48,530 (£26,019) in 2000. The middle 50 percent earned between $34,800 (£18,658) and $73,780 (£39,557). The lowest 10 percent earned less than $24,710 (£13,248), and the highest 10 percent earned more than $103,970 (£55,743). Median annual earnings were $52,860 (£28,340) in apparel, piece goods, and notions - the industry employing the largest numbers of fashion designers.[1]


[edit] Fashion education

A classroom filled with sewing machines and mannequins.
A student fashion show, 2007Most fashion designers today have attended some kind of art school. There are a number of well known fashion design schools worldwide. Possibly the most famous is Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. Alumni of St Martins include John Galliano, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Arkadius and Hussein Chalayan. Other notable London Fashion Schools include the London College of Fashion,The Royal College of Arts in London and the University of Westminster, whose alumni include Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Bailey, and Stuart Vevers.

Notable American fashion design schools include Parsons The New School for Design and Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) in New York City, Lasell College in Newton, Massachusetts, Drexel University and Moore College in Philadelphia, Woodbury University, The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (F.I.D.M) and A.I.U. in Los Angeles alumns include Uriel Saenz and Ashley Paige, and more specialized in French Haute Couture techniques,Academy of Couture Art in West Hollywood. According to the annual survey from US News, Parsons has recently lost its position as the top school in the U.S. for graduate art programs; now the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (S.A.I.C) has shifted up in the list and taken its place. This is being attributed to Parsons' loss of Tim Gunn as a faculty member of their fashion program, who resigned to become the Creative Director for Liz Claiborne. SAIC: Founded as the Chicago Academy of Design in 1866 by a collective of studio artists, the institution went through many changes before the turn of the century, some necessitated by the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. The collecting arm of the School was founded in 1872, and The Art Institute of Chicago was born in 1882 to accommodate a distinct museum and school. The Art Institute moved to its current iconic location on Michigan Avenue after the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893, and it remains the largest museum-school partnership in the country. Notable fashion alumni include Halston, Gemma Kahng, and Cynthia Rowley.


[edit] Areas of fashion design
Many professional fashion designers start off by specializing in a particular area of fashion. The smaller and the more specific the market, the more likely a company is to get the right look and feel to their clothes. It is also easier to establish oneself in the fashion industry if a company is known for one type of product, rather than several products. Once a fashion company becomes established (that is, has regular buyers and is well-known by both the trade and the public), it may decide to expand into a new area. If the firm has made a name for the clothes it already produces, this helps to sell the new line. It is usually safest for a company to expand into an area similar to the one it already knows. For example, a designer of women's sportswear might expand into men's sportswear. The chart below shows the areas in which many designers choose to specialize.

Area Brief Market
Women's Day wear Practical, comfortable, fashionable Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
Women's Evening wear Glamorous, sophisticated, apt for the occasion Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
Women's Lingerie Glamorous, comfortable, washable Haute Couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
Men's Day wear Casual, practical, comfortable Tailoring, ready-to-wear, mass market
Men's Evening wear Smart, elegant, formal, apt for the occasion Tailoring, ready-to-wear, mass market
Girls' Wear Pretty, colorful, practical, washable, inexpensive Ready-to-wear, mass market
Teenage Wear Highly fashion-conscious, comfortable, inexpensive Ready-to-wear, mass market
Sportswear Comfortable, practical, well-ventilated, washable Ready-to-wear, mass market
Knitwear Right weight and color for the season Ready-to-wear, mass market
Outerwear Stylish, warm, right weight and color for the season Ready-to-wear, mass market
Bridal wear Sumptuous, glamorous, classic Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
Accessories Striking, fashionable Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market


[edit] Fashion design around the world
Most major countries have their own fashion industry, including Belgium, Spain, Portugal, Brazil, India, The Netherlands, Germany, Poland, and Australia. However, only five nations have established truly international reputations in fashion design. These countries are France, the United Kingdom, the United States of America, Italy, and Japan.


[edit] American fashion design
The majority of American fashion houses are based in New York, although there are also a significant number in Los Angeles, where a substantial percentage of clothing manufactured in the US is actually made, Miami, and Chicago, which was once a center of American fashion. American fashion design is dominated by a clean-cut, casual style, reflecting the athletic, health-conscious lifestyles of many American city-dwellers. A designer who helped to set the trend in the United States for sport-influenced day wear throughout the 1940s and 50's was Claire McCardell. Many of her designs have been revived in recent decades. More modern influences on the American look have been Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Anna Sui, Donna Karan, Kenneth Cole, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Tommy Hilfiger.


[edit] British fashion design
As in France, the majority of British fashion houses are based in the capital, London. British fashion houses are associated with a very traditional, British style: elegant, yet conservative cuts, fine yet not overly extravagant materials and a sort of noble, even 'imperial' elegance, such as that of traditional 'Fifties debutantes' gowns, compared to the French 'chic'. The first fashion designer, Charles Worth, was a native of Britain, although he made his name in Paris in the 19th century. British Designers include Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Stella McCartney, Matthew Williamson, and Christopher Kane.


[edit] French fashion design
Most French fashion houses are in Paris, which is the capital of French fashion. Traditionally, French fashion is chic and stylish, defined by its sophistication, cut, and smart accessories. Among the many Parisian couture houses are Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, and Yves Saint Laurent, who display their work at the designer collections that are held twice a year.


[edit] Italian fashion design
Most of the older Italian couturiers are in Rome. However, Milan is the Italian fashion capital, and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual elegance and luxurious fabrics. The first Italian luxury brand was Salvatore Ferragamo (who has exported exquisite hand-made shoes to the U.S. since the 1920s); among the best-known, exclusive fashion names, Gucci is the greatest-selling Italian fashion brand, with worldwide sales of $7.158 billion dollars. [1] Other well-known Italian fashion houses include: Valentino Garavani, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Giorgio Armani and Prada.


[edit] Japanese fashion design
Most Japanese fashion houses are in Tokyo. The Japanese look is loose and unstructured (often resulting from complicated cutting), colours tend to the sombre and subtle, and richly textured fabrics. Famous Japanese designers are Yohji Yamamoto, Kenzo, Issey Miyake (masterful drape and cut), and Comme des Garçons 's Rei Kawakubo, who developed a new way of cutting (comparable to Madeleine Vionnet's innovation in the 1930s).


[edit] Fashion design terms
A fashion designer conceives garment combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture. While sewing and pattern-making skills are beneficial, they are not a pre-requisite of successful fashion design. Most fashion designers are formally trained or apprenticed.
A pattern maker (or pattern cutter) drafts the shapes and sizes of a garment's pieces. This may be done manually with paper and measuring tools or by using an AutoCAD computer software program. Another method is to drape fabric directly onto a dress form. The resulting pattern pieces can be constructed to produce the intended design of the garment and required size. Formal training is usually required for working as a pattern marker.
A tailor makes custom designed garments made to the client's measure; especially suits (coat and trousers, jacket and skirt, et cetera). Tailors usually undergo an apprenticeship or other formal training.
A textile designer designs fabric weaves and prints for clothes and furnishings. Most textile designers are formally trained as apprentices and in school.
A stylist co-ordinates the clothes, jewelry, and accessories used in fashion photography and catwalk presentations. A stylist may also work with an individual client to design a coordinated wardrobe of garments. Many stylists are trained in fashion design. However, many are not and simply have a knack for pulling great looks together. They are also referred to as personal shoppers.
A buyer selects and buys the mix of clothing available in retail shops, department stores and chain stores. Most fashion buyers are trained in business and/or fashion studies.
A seamstress sews ready to wear or mass produced clothing by hand or with a sewing machine, either in a garment shop or as a sewing machine operator in a factory. She (or he) may not have the skills to make (design and cut) the garments, or to fit them on a model.
A teacher of fashion design teaches the art and craft of fashion design in art or fashion school.
A custom clothier makes custom-made garments to order, for a given customer.
A dressmaker specializes in custom-made women's clothes: day, cocktail, and evening dresses, business clothes and suits, trousseaus, sports clothes, and lingerie.
An illustrator draws and paints clothing designs for commercial use.
A model wears and displays clothes at fashion shows and in photographs.
A fit model aids the fashion designer by wearing and commenting on the fit of clothes during their design and pre-manufacture. Fit models need to be a particular size for this purpose.
A fashion journalist writes fashion articles describing the garments presented or fashion trends, for magazines or newspapers.
An alterations specialist (alterationist) adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, and sometimes re-styles them. NOTE: despite tailors altering garments to fit the client, not all alterationists are tailors.
A wardrobe consultant or fashion advisor recommends styles and colors that are flattering to the client.
A photographer photographs the clothes on fashion models for use in magazines, newspapers, or adverts.
A fashion show producer is a person or firm that organizes runway/catwalk shows.

[edit] Footnotes
^ "Best Global Brands: The 100 Most Valuable Brands", Vera Bradley BusinessWeek

f alphabet

城市


London


Paris


NewYork


Milan


类型


RTW
Ready-to-Wear Today
Ready-to-wear has rather different connotations in the spheres of fashion and classic clothing. In the fashion industry, designers produce ready-to-wear clothing intended to be worn without significant alteration, because it is by far the most economical, efficient, and profitable way to produce garments. They use standard patterns, factory equipment, and faster construction techniques to keep costs low, compared to a custom-sewn version of the same item. Some fashion houses or fashion designers create ready-to-wear lines that are mass-produced and industrially manufactured, while others offer lines that are very exclusive and produced only in limited numbers for a limited time. Whatever the quantity produced, these garments are never one-of-a-kind.


[edit] Haute Couture and Bespoke
The antithesis of ready-to-wear is different depending on whether it concerns women's or men's fashion. In women's fashion high end clothing made partly incorporating features requested by the client and to her exact measurements is called haute couture. In menswear, it is usually called bespoke. In menswear, one further distinguishes between made-to-measure (or 'semi-bespoke'), in which a standard pattern is adapted to the customer's measurements, and (full) bespoke, in which a new design is created from scratch for each customer. Savile Row is a famous district in London legendary for its bespoke tailoring. Charvet in Paris is an example[1] of a famous men's bespoke shirtmaker which offers both a high-end ready-to-wear as well as a bespoke service.

The top tailors of traditional clothing, such as traditional Savile Row establishments, do not generally diversify, although a few have; in this case, the ready-to-wear clothing is not actually made 'in house', but is a re-branded garment. An example of a firm that has done this is Gieves and Hawkes. Many of the larger establishments, such as Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, or Huntsman will not produce ready-to-wear clothing, and, at much cheaper rates than the female haute couture houses, are able to attract enough buyers to remain profitable on bespoke clothing alone. A large factor in this decision is a fear of alienating traditional customers, who might see ready-to-wear as tarnishing the reputation of the establishment. Such perceptions are based on issues caused by the lower price, and include problems such as a worse fit, lower quality construction (for example fused canvasing which shortens the garment's life), and using lower quality fabric. In actual fact, keen to avoid such criticisms, houses like Gieves and Hawkes have been careful to sell clothes with traditional cloth and construction wherever possible. In the shoe industry, most bespoke manufacturers do sell ready-to-wear items, but again they are usually not produced by the actual firm, being bought in from the exclusively ready-to-wear manufacturers and rebranded.

Fashion houses that produce a women's haute couture line, such as Chanel, Dior, and Lacroix or Torrente by Julien Fournié, also produce a ready-to-wear line, which returns a greater profit due to the higher volume turnover of garments and greater availability of the clothing. Relative to couture, ready-to-wear clothing is often more practical and informal, though this may not always be the case. The construction of ready-to-wear clothing is also held to different standard than that of haute couture due to its industrial nature. High-end ready-to-wear lines are sometimes based upon a famous gown or pattern that is then duplicated and advertised to raise the visibility of the designer.


[edit] Collections
Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashionable couture houses each season during a period known as Fashion Week. This takes place on a city-wide basis (London, New York, Paris, Milan, Los Angeles) and occurs twice a year. Collections for autumn/winter are shown early in the year, usually around February, and spring/summer collections are shown around September. Ready-to-wear fashion weeks occur separately and earlier than those of haute couture. Ready-to-wear shows do not always feature the actual garments to be sold later in the year. The key word wearability is used in the press and industry to describe how different the designs featured in a show will be from the garments sold in stores.


[edit] Notes and references
^ Art of Textile Designing. Global Media. ISBN 8189940031


CTR
Haute couture (French for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking"; pronounced [oːt kutyʁ]) refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.

It originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worth's work, produced in Paris in the mid-nineteenth century. In modern France, haute couture is a "protected name" that can be used only by firms that meet certain well-defined standards. However, the term is also used loosely to describe all high-fashion custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in Paris or in other fashion capitals such as Milan, London, Rome, New York and Tokyo.

The term can refer to:

the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions
the fashions created
Contents [show]
1 Legal status
1.1 Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
2 History
3 See also
4 References
5 External links



[edit] Legal status
In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris based in Paris, France. Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture. The criteria for haute couture were established in 1945 and updated in 1992.

To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules:

Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.
However, the term haute couture may have been misused by ready-to-wear brands since the late 1980s, so that its true meaning may have become blurred with that of prêt-à-porter (the French term for ready-to-wear fashion) in the public perception. Every haute couture house also markets prêt-à-porter collections, which typically deliver a higher return on investment than their custom clothing[citation needed]. In fact, much of the haute couture displayed at fashion shows today is rarely sold; it is created to enhance the prestige of the house[citation needed]. Falling revenues have forced a few couture houses to abandon their less profitable couture division and concentrate solely on the less prestigious prêt-à-porter. These houses, such as Italian designer Roberto Capucci, all of whom have their workshops in Italy, are no longer considered haute couture.

Many top designer fashion houses, such as Chanel, use the word for some of their special collections. These collections are often not for sale or they are very difficult to purchase. Sometimes, "haute couture" doesn't mean just creation of new models of cloth wear, but it's also a type of fine art, like any other ones, as sculpture, painting, music and more. Moreover, "haute couture" can even include all of the mentioned components. [1]


[edit] Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
The fashion houses listed on the definitive schedule for Haute-Couture Spring/Summer 2009 are:[2]

Official members
Adeline André
Anne Valérie Hash
Chanel
Christian Dior
Christian Lacroix
Dominique Sirop
Franck Sorbier
Givenchy
Jean Paul Gaultier
Maurizio Galante
Stephane Rolland

Correspondent members (foreign)
Elie Saab
Giorgio Armani
Maison Martin Margiela
Valentino

Guest members
Adam Jones
Alexis Mabille
Boudicca
Cathy Pill
Christophe Josse
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Gustavo Lins
Jean-Paul Knott
Josep Font
Lefranc.Ferrant
Marc Le Bihan
Richard René
Udo Edling

Accessories
On Aura Tout Vu



In the 2008 Spring/Summer Haute Couture week, Guest members included Eymeric François, Gérald Watelet, Nicolas Le Cauchois and On aura tout vu.[3] In the 2008/2009 Fall/Winter Haute Couture week, Emanuel Ungaro showed as an Official Member and WU YONG [1] as a Guest member.[4]

Former members

Atelier Versace
Elsa Schiaparelli
Emilio Pucci
Chado Ralph Rucci
Erica Spitulski
Erik Tenorio
Fred Sethal
Guy Laroche
Hanae Mori

Jean Patou
Jean-Louis Scherrer
Lanvin
Loris Azzaro
Louis Feraud
Mainbocher
Marcel Rochas

Nina Ricci
Paco Rabanne
Pierre Balmain
Pierre Cardin
Ralph Rucci
Torrente
Yves Saint Laurent
Gai Mattiolo
Anna May




[edit] History
This article does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unverifiable material may be challenged and removed. (August 2008)

French leadership in European fashion may perhaps be dated from the 18th century, when the art, architecture, music, and fashions of the French court at Versailles were imitated across Europe[citation needed]. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered fashion dolls dressed in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models.

As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations.

The couturier Charles Frederick Worth (October 13, 1826–March 10, 1895), is widely considered the father of haute couture as it is known today. Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry. Revolutionizing how dressmaking had been previously perceived, Worth made it so the dressmaker became the artist of garnishment: a fashion designer. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing a portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth. Clients selected one model, specified colors and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready-to-wear clothing industry, which was also developing during this period.

Following in Worth's footsteps were Callot Soeurs, Patou, Poiret, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under the leadership of modern designers.

In the 1960s a group of young designers who had trained under men like Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, and Emanuel Ungaro. Japanese native and Paris-based Hanae Mori was also successful in establishing her own line.

Lacroix is perhaps the most successful of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have included Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler.

For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer the main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes, and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. Excessive commercialization and profit-making can be damaging, however. Cardin, for example, licensed with abandon in the 1980s and his name lost most of its fashionable cachet when anyone could buy Cardin luggage at a discount store.

The 1960s also featured a revolt against established fashion standards by mods, rockers, and hippies, as well as an increasing internationalization of the fashion scene. Jet travel had spawned a jet set that partied—and shopped—just as happily in New York as in Paris. Rich women no longer felt that a Paris dress was necessarily better than one sewn elsewhere. While Paris is still pre-eminent in the fashion world, it is no longer the sole arbiter of fashion.


[edit] See also
Fédération française de la couture
Fashion designer
Fashion Week
Designer label
Luxury brand
List of grands couturiers
Business cluster

[edit] References
^ Wuyong - Dancing In A Haute Couture Debut
^ "Haute-Couture Spring Summer 2009 Definitive schedule". http://www.modeaparis.com/va/collections/2009ephc/index.html. Retrieved on 2009-02-14.
^ "Haute-Couture Spring Summer 2008 Definitive schedule". http://www.modeaparis.com/va/collections/2008ephc/index.html. Retrieved on 2008-06-27.
^ "Haute-Couture Fall Winter 2008/2009 Definitive schedule". http://www.modeaparis.com/va/collections/2008hahc/index.html. Retrieved on 2008-06-27.

[edit] External links
Look up couturier in
Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
The Secret World of Haute Couture: A BBC Documentary Presentation
Introduction in Haute Couture
"Haute Couture" from Label France, a magazine of the French Ministry for Foreign Affairs
Haute Couture at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Timeline of Art History
"The Golden Age of Couture". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibition.php. Retrieved on 2007-09-13.
"Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php.
Fédération française de la couture


Men


Resort



品牌



3.1 Phillip Lim


6267


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Karl Lagerfeld

Kate Spade (born Katherine Noel Brosnahan in Kansas City, Missouri; December 24, 1962) is the co-founder and namesake of the designer brand, Kate Spade New York.

Contents [show]
1 Education
2 Mademoiselle Magazine
3 Andy Spade
4 Shops
5 Awards
6 Criticism
7 Popular culture
8 References
9 External links



[edit] Education
Spade graduated from St. Teresa's Academy, an all-girl Catholic high school in Kansas City, Missouri. She majored in journalism at Arizona State University, during which time she also worked in a motorcycle bar[1], and is a member of Kappa Kappa Gamma sorority.


[edit] Mademoiselle Magazine
In 1986, Spade worked in the accessories department of Mademoiselle in Manhattan, where she was credited in the magazine's masthead as Katy Brosnahan. While at Mademoiselle she met Bradley Carvette who worked in the art department and would become a longtime boyfriend. Together, they were featured in the magazine as part of a photo story on couples and love.

She left Mademoiselle in 1991, with the title of senior fashion editor/head of accessories. While working for Mademoiselle she noticed that the market lacked stylish and sensible handbags, so decided to create her own. With this in mind, Kate browsed local flea markets, began researching different styles, fabrics, production costs, and created a line of handbags with classic shapes, colors, and fabrics.


[edit] Andy Spade
Spade met her future husband, Andy Spade (brother of actor and comic, David Spade), a native of Scottsdale, Arizona, while at ASU, working side-by-side as salespersons in a men's clothing store, Carter's Men Shop in Phoenix.[2] They were married in 1994. They had a daughter, Frances Beatrix Spade in February, 2005. They launched their New York-based design company "kate spade handbags" in January 1993, selling mainly handbags. Today Kate Spade sells a variety of items including, stationery, personal organizers, address books, shoes, beauty products, perfume, raincoats, pajamas, eyewear, and in 2004, launched "kate spade at home." The home collection includes bedding, bath items, china, various items for the home and wallpaper.

Jack Spade, a fictional name, is the men's complement to the Kate Spade brand. Its founder and principal designer was Andy Spade. In recent years, Kate Spade has been featuring designs and special editions by guest designers and is no longer the sole artistic vision of the husband and wife team.


[edit] Shops

In 1996, Kate Spade opened its first shop in New York City's SoHo. In 1998, Kate Spade opened its doors in Boston, in 2000, Chicago, San Francisco, Greenwich, Connecticut, and Manhasset, Long Island. In the spring of 2003, one more store opened in Georgetown, Washington, D.C. From there, a wave of boutiques opened in 2004, in Atlanta, Houston, Charlotte, Scottsdale, Dallas, and Boca Raton. The last boutiques that were opened were in Las Vegas, Nevada, Palo Alto, King of Prussia, Pennsylvania and Huntsville, Alabama. New stores were planned for Fall 2008 at The Mall at Chestnut Hill in Chestnut Hill, MA, Ross Park Mall in Pittsburgh, Westfield Galleria at Roseville in Roseville, CA and also in Arden Fair Mall in Sacramento, CA. The kate spade store at The Westchester in White Plains recently opened. In 2004, the Kate Spade brand went international, opening a store in Aoyama, Tokyo, Japan.

The brand currently has many Kate Spade boutiques around the world: 46 in the United States, 32 in Japan, 6 in Hong Kong, and 4 in the Philippines as well as 2 in Jakarta.In 2004, Women's Wear Daily reported that Kate Spade had sales of $125 million. It was predicted that in fiscal 2005, sales could reach and surpass $200 million. The Neiman Marcus Group Inc., which formerly owned Kate Spade, sold it to Liz Claiborne for $124 million in November 2006.[3]


[edit] Awards
Kate Spade has won numerous awards throughout her career. In 1996 the Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded Kate "America's New Fashion Talent in Accessories" for her classic designs. In 1998, CFDA once again honored her for "Best Accessory Designer of the Year". Kate Spade's home collection won her three design awards in 2004, including, House Beautiful's "Giants of Design Award for Tastemaker", Bon Appetit's "American Food and Entertaining Award for Designer of the Year", and Elle Decor's "Elle Decor International Design Award for Bedding".


[edit] Criticism
Kate Spade handbags have become very fashionable and are highly-desired items. In an article on fake handbag sales on Canal Street in New York City's Chinatown, the New York Times famously criticized the very simple construction and boxy shape of the original Kate Spade bags as easy targets for counterfeiters.


[edit] Popular culture
Kate Spade handbags have been featured frequently in the sitcom Just Shoot Me (whose cast included Ms. Spade's brother-in-law, David Spade) as the favored purse of the former fashion model character Nina Van Horn, played by Wendie Malick.





[edit] References
^ Elisabeth Buhmiller, PUBLIC LIVES; A Cautious Rise to a Top Name in Fashion, New York Times, March 12 1999
^ Ellyn Spragins, How We Bagged Our Careers, Fortune Small Business, 1 September 2003
^ Angela Moore, Marketwatch, 8 November 2006

[edit] External links
A Business Card for Your Wild Side - Wall Street Journal
Spades Stepping Aside July 26, 2007
Bio and photo of Kate Spade — Crain's New York Business 40 under 40 — 1992
Kate Spade Official Website
Jack Spade Official Website
Real or Fake? kate spade labels
Kate Spade's biography
Good Bone Structure (article)
Kate Spade Handbags And Fragrance (article)
EOnline - David Spade Profile
Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kate_Spade"


Katy Rodriguez


Kenneth Cole New York


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f

语音知识一

教材p.3语音知识1和2 为什么只介绍[a]
介绍并朗读元音[a] [ε] [i] 辅音[s] [t] [d] [f] [v] [m] 其读音规则
发音方法 元音 [a] [ε] [i]
口腔张开度 大 略小于[a] 极小
舌位 舌头平放在口中 舌尖抵下齿龈 舌尖抵下齿龈
舌尖抵下齿龈 舌面前部略抬 舌前部向硬颚略抬
唇形 不成圆形 不成圆形 嘴角用里从两边拉后
唇形扁平
说明 与汉语相似 下颚下降 与汉语相似
汉语不抵 但紧张 嘴角勿用力后缩 比较紧张
不要发成[ai]无复合 张口度极小
张口度
上下牙床距离5毫米
发音方法 辅音[s] [t] [d] [f] [v] [m]
阻碍情况 舌尖抵下齿 舌尖抵上齿 同 上齿抵下唇 同 双唇闭拢
舌前抬向硬鹗 形成阻塞 下唇略里卷 软鹗下降
上下齿合拢
阻碍程度 部分阻 完全闭塞 同 部分阻 同 完全阻
舌前部与硬鹗 气流突然冲出 气流擦出 气流由鼻腔
间成窄缝气流 外冲出
声带状态 否 否 是 否 是
说明 相似 相似 同 相似 同 相似 紧张
双唇左右咧开 除阻有力 下唇略内卷 除阻有力
送气与否2 鼻音 乐音
注意：法语的语音要求口形比较紧凑 不像汉语比较松弛 谬之毫厘 往往差之千里。
1． 朗读教材p.2的规则和练习
2． 朗读课文，边读边翻译，解释句子的结构.
--aller 动词原形allez是和 vous相配合的动词变位形式
--moi是我的重读形式
--ca 口语中多用
--bonjour-madame-vous-comment allez vous;salut-fanny-toi-ca va）
从称呼看对话人之间的亲疏关系 请特别注意你和您的使用区别—法国是个很注重礼仪和等级的国家
--开音符 长音符 软音符p.43.
同样的字母和不同的符号搭配在一起，就会发不同的音
--升调和降调 先升后降 类似英语 但是调子的变化没有那么丰富 徐书 p.136